A Taste of Old World in Kyoto in Four Days
Kyoto, the capital of Japan until 1869, is a breath of fresh air compared to the modern, frenetic hustle bustle of Tokyo. Kyoto’s narrow, quiet streets are peaceful and elegant and it’s easy to imagine a geisha rushing by to her next appointment (if you don’t see an actual geisha, which you may).
The city is sprawling but manageable so you can get a good chunk of exploring conquered in four days although you could easily spend a week in this beautiful city. Kyoto has 17 UNESCO World Heritage sights, a few of which you’ll hit in this itinerary, but we will focus on getting you off the beaten tourist track to see what life in Kyoto is really like.
DAY ONE
If you’re traveling from Tokyo, you should experience the bullet train as your means of traveling to Kyoto as the bullet train is a very cool thing in and of itself. Be sure you sit on the right side of the train so you can catch a glimpse of Mt. Fuji out the window.
Upon arriving in Kyoto, take an Uber (or a 30-min walk if you prefer) to Hotel Vista Premio Nagomitei for a delightful stay with breakfast included. The hotel is modern and beautiful, staffed with an incredibly accommodating team and at a steal of a price.
Head to the historic Nishiki Market before it closes at 5:30p to shop, sample and ogle bizarre and delectable treats. Izakayas are the Japanese version of a tapas bar so pop in to any one you pass to get a drink and bite; try to find one that is standing room only if you want to blend with the locals.
End the night walking along Pontocho Alley for a lively bar and food scene; SfeeraBar Satonaka has great craft cocktails and enjoy some cold Asahi beer and fresh sashimi at Sushi Taka.
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DAY TWO
Today will be filled to the brim with exploring so be sure to rest well and properly fuel before heading out. Most hotels will offer guests the option to have a “Western style”, which can be a sense of entertainment and wonder on your travel through Japan. The breakfast usually consists of deli meats, some kind of chowder, lettuce, something that resembles eggs and pastry.
Head first to Chion-in, a Buddhist temple that is the head temple of the Jodo sect and is tucked away against Kyoto’s forested mountainside. If you enter up the back stairs, you may encounter temple monks dressed in robes, wearing conical hats and chanting as they pass.
When you enter the temple grounds, it’s clear that every detail was thought out. The dark angles of the towering temple outline juxtapose the blue sky and dark green terrain and you can’t help but feel small in the midst of such beautiful nature and deep spiritual history. There is a serene magic in the shrines and temples and Kyoto and also some etiquette that you should know:
Temples are Buddhist, shrines are Shinto. This JW Magazine article gives a great overview.
Wear or bring socks as you cannot wear shoes inside the temples
Bring coins for offerings
When you walk under any torii gate, it means you are entering sacred space
After exploring Chion-in, head back to Central Kyoto and walk through Maruyama Park (the most popular site for cherry blossom-viewing during the season) and past Yasaka Shrine, which will be your first view of the cheerful vermilion orange shrines that Kyoto is known for. It will be crowded but worth admiring as you walk to Ishibe-koji Alley, one of the most iconic alleys in Kyoto. There are dozens of shops to pop in to and be sure to stop by Malebrache for an artisanal local sweet.
In Ishibe-koji Alley, you will inevitably spot the five-level pagoda Hokan-ji Temple. Follow the alley path up towards the pagoda and you will find yourself at Kiyomizu-dera Temple, a UNESCO site from 780 AD. It is built high up on the hill for sweeping views of Kyoto and an absolutely magical experience to be able to walk on such an ancient, well-preserved site. We highly recommend going into the temple an hour before closing so you can see the Kyoto skyline at dusk and explore the grounds more freely as few visitors are entering and the crowd inside will be thinning.
Afterwards get dolled up for a night out of restaurant hopping, starting with soba + sake at Shofukutei, then gyoza at Tiger Gyoza and finally wine and dessert at Mon Wine Bar.
DAY THREE
Today you will experience the more quiet parts of Northern and Western Kyoto, just be sure to get an early start as most temples and shrines close at 4:30p or 5pm and you want to maximize the day of exploration! There are plenty of bike rental shops in Central Kyoto, just ask the staff to draw out a bike-friendly route for you to follow to ultimately end up at Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. Along the way you can take little detours to weave through any neighborhoods that look quaint and low traffic.
Outside of the city, you will be able to see the quiet composure with which the Japanese maintain their home life. There are no speeding cars, noisy honking or shouting to a neighbor; instead there was the focused effort of a man watering his garden, the determined shuffle of a woman headed to her local grocery story or couples perched on their porch to observe life pass by.
Your first stop is Kenkun Shrine, where you will find yourself with the undisturbed time and space to think and reflect. Here you are much more likely to be in the company of a local from the neighborhood paying their respects than you are a tourist. You will also have the chance to practice your shrine offering, which includes ringing a bell to get the gods’ attention, giving some coins, clapping and bowing (just watch and observe others there to learn the flow).
The next stop is Kinkaku-ji (also known as The Golden Pavilion) which is a must see when you’re in Kyoto. It is one of the most famous sights in Kyoto, if not all of Japan, so be prepared to shuffle along in line the entire time, not unlike you would for a rid eat Disneyland.
Afterwards, you’ll start to enter more rural territory as you ride to Ryōan-ji, a Zen temple with gorgeous landscapes and one of the most famous rock gardens in Japan. Here, you can sit under the zen garden’s covered terrace to reflect and contemplate. In an amazing feat, the monks who built the zen garden did so that no matter where you are standing when you look at the rock garden, one of the 15 rocks will always be hidden from eyesight.
As you continue riding towards Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, you’ll see other temples along the road. Almost all are UNESCO sites so explore any that you have time for and are curious to see. Even if you don’t stop at any additional temples or shrines, you’ll bike through rice paddies and more remote and rural parts of Kyoto on your way.
Just outside of Arashiyama is Seiryo-ji Temple, a Buddhist temple from 945 AD whose grounds are worth exploring and is a good spot to park your bike. From here you can walk through the small town outside of Arashiyama to find a spot to eat lunch or stop for a sake tasting on your way to the forest.
The Arashiyama Bamboo Forest is a natural forest of mostly moso bamboo and runs about 1600 feet long and 330 feet wide. The bamboo stalks can grow up to 130 feet tall and the forest itself is said to be over 1,000 years old.
Located right next to the forest is Okochi Sanso Garden, a former residence for Japanese period actor Denjiro Okochi. The gardens are sprawling with structures and buildings from the 1930s and 1940s and offer stunning view of Kyoto. Visitors pay 1000Y ($10) to enter the grounds and receive ceremonial matcha and a treat in the teahouse as well as a reprieve from the crowds.
The forest closes at 5:30pm, which is a good time to make the bike ride back to Central Kyoto and enjoy some insanely delicious ramen at Takakura Nijo Ramen.
DAY FOUR
If you’re continuing on the itinerary detailed in Two Weeks In Japan: The Complete Itinerary, you’ll make a day trip to Nara before packing up and heading to Miyajima Island the follow day.
