The CC's Insider Guide to Istanbul
Bahar Sak, The CC’s Tastemaker in Turkey, spent years as a luxury concierge in Istanbul, Bodrum and Dubai working for chic hotels like Raffles Istanbul and Nikki Beach and knows a thing or two about planning a seamless trip.
Bahar was born and raised in Istanbul but has traveled to over 22 different countries over the past 7 years and, like a true renaissance woman, can often be found sailing, diving, fine dining or riding motorcycles.
She is chock full of contacts in and around Istanbul and here she shares more about her favorite local watering holes, historical hotels and day trips to the countryside to help you discover Turkey’s hidden corners.
PLANNING A TRIP TO TURKEY?
The Citrine Compass is a boutique travel planning network that helps busy, sophisticated world explorers create curated and authentic travel experiences. The CC is comprised of a hand-selected collection of local tastemakers around the globe that have amazing taste and a passion for their region.
Bahar is part of our team of Tastemakers and would love to help plan your perfect trip. Check out our Services and Booking pages to learn more!
Where should we stay when we come to Istanbul?
Coming from the hospitality industry, I take this question seriously and have a lot of recommendations but a few that come to mind are AJWA Sultanahmet, Six Senses Kocatas Mansions, The Bank Hotel and Pera Palace.
Turkey is famous for its spa scene - which ones are your favorites?
Kiliç Ali Paşa Hamami, Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamami and Sarniç Navitas Spa
Best museums?
My personal favorites are Istanbul Painting and Sculpture Museum, Sakip Sabanci Museum, Istanbul Modern Art Museum and Arter.
Any recs for an authentic Turkish dining experience?
I love Agora Meyhanesi 1890 for an authentic meyhane (Turkish tavern) experience. Another option is Beyoğlu's ornate Çiçek Pasaji (Flower Passage) on Istiklal Caddesi at Galatasaray Square, which is filled with restaurants.
Each evening the tables are filled with Turks and foreigners who come to talk, eat, laugh and linger over dozens of plates of meze, succulent kebabs, seafood, sweet desserts, and glass after glass of milky Turkish raki, beer or wine.
Possibly the hardest question of all - where to eat in Istanbul?
We have so many options here so the recommendations I tend to give are highly specific to a client’s preference on ambience, cuisine, budget, etc but some of my favorites are 16 Roof, Ulus 29, Tatbak and Lokanta 1741. For a more causal dining experience, I love Sirkeci Lokantasi 1912 or Zennup 1844.
How about your favorite wine bars?
Suvla Bistro Wine Bar, Pano Wine Bar and 316 Meze Wine Bar are all amazing options.
What is a hidden gem in Istanbul we should know about?
Located right next to the Belgrad Forest, Ataturk Arboretum is one of the most beautiful places in Istanbul during any season. The arboretum is teeming with lush nature in the spring and summer, beautiful with autumn colors in the fall, and takes on a different atmosphere in the winter season.
Work on this area (known as the tree park), started in the 1940s and trees were brought from all over the world to be planted there. The area now has more than 1500 tree species.
Best day trip from Istanbul?
The town of Sile is just a 45-minute drive from central Istanbul. You can take a stroll along the Sile Limani (port area) where all the boats are docked and you’ll even find small fishing boats converted into restaurants where you can enjoy a cheap and utterly delicious meal. One of the main draws here is the Sile Feneri, a lighthouse which was built during the Ottoman Era under the command of Sultan Abdulmecid I in 1859-1860, as well as the historical Sile Kalesi, a crumbling castle that dates back to Byzantine times but was rebuilt under the Ottomans on a large rock overlooking the fishing harbor.
I recommend Casa Lavanda if you end up staying the night in Sile.
Where do the locals flock for a night out?
Efendi Topağaci-Nişantaşu is one of the most popular spots for unique cocktail tastings, socializing, and dancing. Efendi, located in Topağaci, Nişantaşi, draws a great deal of traffic from all around Istanbul and is quite active and crowded in the evenings. Be prepared to squeeze in with a lot of new friends, especially on weekends.
Where else in Turkey should we consider traveling to on our visit?
From Istanbul you can take a one-hour flight southwest to Izmir, the third-largest city in Turkey. You can sit at the "raki table", a very local thing to do at Veli Usta Restaurant where you drink and converse with friends and strangers. What is said at the raki table, stays at the raki table, a concept that goes back to before the Ottoman Empire. Also, if you promise something at the raki table, you have until noon the next day to confirm it or else it doesn’t count.
You can also make day trips to Ephesus, an archaeological site is about one hour south of the city, Cesme, a gorgeous seaside town full of old stone buildings, narrows streets and lots of restaurants and shops, or Urla, an area well known for it’s wine, olive oils and culinary scene.
We’ve heard Urla is exceptional. Any intel for us?
I would definitely recommend you to stay in Urla for a night and you must stay at Mitera 1905. It’s magical! Make sure you reserve your room as early as possible.
My favorite places to eat are Vino Locale Urla and OD Urla, both fantastic fine dining establishments.