Visit Iya Valley to Find the Best Onsen in Japan
WRITTEN BY THE CITRINE COMPASS FOUNDER, KALYN SALINAS
When any local asked us where else we were visiting on our travels across Japan and we said, “Iya Valley”, they looked at us like we were insane. We tried saying, “It’s in Tokushima Prefecture” or, “You know, near Miyoshi?” the puzzled looks continued. Whatever - it’s a place, it’s way off the map and it’s insanely gorgeous.
A note to all before we dive in: the destination is worth it but getting there is a big old adventure. After reading this you’ll be well-prepared for the trip but the way up to the hotel is windy, edging a cliff and at times a one way road for those going up and down. So while I HIGHLY recommend a visit, read on to know what’s coming.
This excursion to Iya Valley is part of our 2-Week Japan Itinerary, which is an amazing tour through Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka and Miyajima Island.
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DAY ONE
You will take the JR bullet train to Shin-Kobe (connecting through Hiroshima if coming from Miyajima Island) to pick up a rental car. We reserved our rental car through Europcar ahead of time to pick up near the Shin-Kobe station and drop off in Osaka; the cost was good and the car pick-up was seamless but the shop was a bit difficult to find so I would suggest doing some research on Kayak.
Once in the car, the adventure truly began. Here are some of the excitements that await you:
The Navigation: We opted not to get English navigation in the car since we could use our cell navigation on the pocket wifi. Random Japanese warnings and unspecified beeping ensued…the entire four-hour drive.
The Driving: The lucky designated driver will be sitting on the left side of the car and driving on the left side of the road. Buckle up, friends! You’ll be relieved to know the freeway signs are in English, not Japanese characters.
The Tolls: Unbeknownst to us at the time, tolls need to be paid along the drive. Stop no. one was stressful - imagine stop no. five! You will end up paying close to $100 in tolls along the way (which seemed a lot scarier as 10,600 yen) and the cashiers at each tollbooth, albeit friendly, do not speak a lick of English. Most take credit card so just thrust it out and pray they swipe it, but bring change just in case. We also recommend using Google Voice Translator to pull up “We don’t speak Japanese :)” on your phone to share at every stop.
The Snacks: We were terrified to get off the freeway for a bathroom break because you have to exit the freeway and who knew how many new tolls would await us. Good news: you can enter the freeway toll-free if you exit! As a matter of fact, you should stop at least once to get some Japanese delicacies out of the vending machines and have a snack. Our stop was jam-packed with people cracking raw egg into heaping bowls of ramen so we decided to do as the locals do. More good news: We’re still alive!
The Ascent: The windy drive up the mountain will start out calm enough but shortly thereafter you will casually peek out the passenger side to see a 250-foot sheer drop off the cliff. The terrain gets more dense and forested the higher up you get so you won’t always see the cliff’s edge per se, but it’s there. And don’t worry, there are domed mirrors that haven’t been cleaned since 1991 on some of the turns to negotiate when you can drive up (or reverse down) the parts that only allow one car to pass. My husband thought the drive was fantastic - I politely disagreed - but it was over with in thirty minutes.
Here’s the bright news: the drive out to the island is absolutely beautiful and you will see some of Japan’s amazing modern design come to life in the bridges connecting the islands you are crossing.
You will also get to see a part of Japan rarely explored by tourists, which is pretty fantastic. The hills are so remote that the Heike clan retreated there to hide after defeat in the 12th century, and you will be right in the heart of it all at Hotel Iyaonsen.
This place is splurge-worthy but it will cost you a pretty penny (I think it was $1300 per night for 2 including breakfast and dinner, although we went for an upgraded room with an outdoor bath). Nearby is Iya Bijin, which has good reviews on TripAdvisor and won’t hurt the wallet as much (although the views aren’t quiet as breath-taking).
DAY TWO
Here at Iyaonsen, the breakfast money view is overlooking the great valley so be sure to ask ahead of time if you can reserve a seat along the window. If you really feel like settling in like a local, then opt for the Japanese breakfast which usually includes rice, fish, pickled vegetables and miso soup.
Bellies full and settling into chill mode, head over to the cable car boarding dock where you prepare for the deep descent into the valley. All passengers on the cable car are wearing kimonos and slippers to easily slip into the natural hot springs that are famous in certain parts of Japan; sulfur and bicarbonate water combine to create a soak with healing powers.
Do as the locals do and head in to the women’s or men’s onsen and then drop trou. Technically, you’re supposed to wash your body off before entering the hot springs but the bucket and ladle were so small and you’re so naked so I just jumped in.
Aside from the nude strangers in the bath with you, it’s an incredibly relaxing experience. The water is not too hot so you can relax for hours, listening to the rapids below rush by and admiring the exotic scenery. Break for lunch and then head back down for a private onsen soak in the afternoon.
When you feel like mixing it up, do the only “active” thing you’ll do all weekend and walk to Peeing Boy Statue, which is set out on a rock on the cliff’s edge. The statue looks like he is relieving himself into the river and has been a stopping point for years for daredevils to venture out near the statue.
Spend the rest of the day bathing (in your outdoor tub or the communal onsen) and let the peacefulness sink deep into your bones; here you have nothing to do but relax.
DAY THREE
On your way to Osaka you’ll stop by Iya-no-Kazura Bashi, which is a well-maintained rope bridge famous in the area. The Heike clan built rope bridges so they could cross the valley and cut the bridges down quickly if enemies approached.
You can pay a fee to walk across the bridge and get the heart pumping, or (if you’re like me) you can wave at the bridge and go visit the artisan marketplace to look at the art and grab some tourist trinkets and delightful candies. We tried said delightful candies on the drive to Osaka only to find they were bath bombs, so indulge at your own risk!
