Rome to Ponza: Visiting an Ancient Island in the Tyrrhenian Sea
I first learned about Ponza when it was featured on the cover of Condé Nast - I breezed through the magazine article but had already decided we were going when I first set eyes on the glossy photos of the incredible coastal cliffs and delightful seafood pasta served in the quaint town.
I realized in a few quick Google searches that little to no information was available regarding travel to Ponza so that magazine stayed with us throughout Italy, battered and loved, as our guide to the biggest of the Pontine Islands. Known as the secret holiday spot of Romans (which was confirmed by our Roman Airbnb host, who had traveled there for years with her family), you’re in for an authentic and elegant weekend getaway.
We did Ponza in a whirlwind 48 hours but considering that we still talk about how amazing it was, I’m going to recommend you give the island a full three days.
DAY ONE: ROME TO PONZA
Ponza is an easy weekend trip from Rome but requires a bit of logistical preparedness so I’ll give you the hit list:
Head from Roma Termini Station to the coastal town of Formia or Anzio via ItaliaRail (the towns are close so pick whatever works with your schedule and/or the Laziomar hydrofoil schedule).
Laziomar is the main boat operator and offers trips to Ponza on the ferry or hydrofoil. The hydrofoil will take about 1.5 hours and the ferry about 2.5 hours. Buy your ticket ahead of time if you’re Type A like me (or traveling in peak season) or at the station if you’re more of the “wing it” type.
We went Rome to Formia and the dock to hop on the Laziomar boat was a short 5-min walk away (although the most direct route is a long set of stairs so heavy packers beware) and you can buy your ticket at the booth on the dock. Be sure you look up the ferry time tables on a third party website such as this as the schedule changes depending on the season and you don’t want to miss the last ferry!
Insider Tip: Our hydrofoil back to the mainland from Ponza was packed so be sure to arrive early to purchase your ticket
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The ferry ride is quite uneventful although you will breeze by what looked like a castle or fortress on a rock island, which I swear I saw but cannot for the life of me find on Google Maps. You will know you’re approaching the island when you hear the oohs and aahs from other passengers, the cliffs emerging like a mirage in the distance.
Once at port and on solid land, taxis will be waiting to whisk you away to your accommodations. There is really only one nice hotel on the island (yay for easy decisions!) called Hotel Chiaia di Luna and it’s charm is accented entirely by its view, which is of an absolutely breathtaking secluded cove surrounded by jagged, whitewashed cliffs.
Ask for a room in a quiet corner of the hotel as our room shared a window with the local nightclub (although the room did have an amazing view). Another popular B&B in Ponza is Hotel Mari Ponza, which is right in port with shops and restaurants and is a bit more budget.
After you check in, take the afternoon to bask in the sun and dip in the pool, sip on crisp prosecco and settle in to the mellow pace on the island. The rooms at Chiaia di Luna are darling and tiny with tile floors and white and blue accents, but you won't be spending much time there as you explore the island. Cocktail hour is served on the terrace (the aforementioned nightclub) and is actually quite a colorful scene of tourists and locals.
Even as guests of the hotel, the bar host was not sure he could find us a seat on a packed Friday night but ditch the seating and find your spot along the railing and watch the incredible sunset turn the sky and cliffside brilliant pinks and oranges.
Be sure your hotel concierge makes you a reservation at Ristorante Eea ahead of time as it came highly recommended for seafood and is popular amongst Italian vacationers. Dinner happens late in Europe so stroll the small, artisanal shops along the promenade prior and get your fill of Italian linen and handmade jewelry.
After a delightful meal of linguine and clams and prawns, end the night in typical Italian fashion with a digestif of your choosing - maybe a nip of limeoncello or grappa to wrap up the night.
Day Two: out on the tyrrhenian sea
One of the best parts about Ponza is that there really isn’t that much to do, even if you’re busy bodies like us. The pace is slow, the days stretch long and you get to settle in to the coastal fishing town lifestyle.
Something you must do though is get out on the turquoise waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, which is suspected to be the same waters where the sorceress Circe seduced Odysseus and turned his men into pigs. Major Game of Thrones vibes on this ancient island. The beauty of the island is best seen by boat so I’ll give you two options, depending on your MO.
Option 1: Explore the Eastern side of Ponza. We chose this as our option as the waters tend to be calmer than the Western side and we wanted a close up look of the amazing rock formations we glimpsed through plexiglass windows on the hydrofoil ride in.
Be sure you grab sandwiches, water and a smattering of delicacies before you depart - we got fresh sliced soppressata and salami from the local butcher, a block of hard cheese (the butcher spoke no English so I just pointed and smiled) and taralli, the absolutely scrumptious and achingly addicting bite-sized snack that is a cross between a breadstick and cracker brushed with salt and olive oil.
Renting a boat in Ponza requires paying money and not much else; they’re not very concerned if you know how to operate a boat or have any ocean experience whatsoever. Getting out of the tiny harbor was terrifying but the boating was quite enjoyable once out in open waters; my fiancé hugged the coast so we could scout which cove we wanted to drop anchor in.
I read articles about how romantic the boating experience was, which it was when we first dropped anchor to take a dip in the azure waters and sun ourselves on the deck of the boat. When we tried to depart for the next cove, we realized that the anchor was stuck in a patch of coral. You can imagine the distress we felt with no one around and no clue what to do, so we (my fiancé) ended up diving down to try and shake the anchor loose.
We eventually broke free only to realize at the next cove that the boat would not stay put only anchored in the soft sand. So we just cruised around lazily for the rest of the afternoon. Look out for the popular beach Spiaggia di Frontone to post up, swim in and grab a refreshment at the cafe as well as the Grotte di Pilato, which look like archways carved into the base of the island that are from ancient Roman times. These grottos were built around the 1st century and are thoughts to be used to farm moray eels, which were a delicacy to Roman Emperor Augustus and his court.
Option Two: Day Trip to Palmarola. This is a trip for the more, ehm, adventurous boater. This trip was highlighted in the Condé Nast article and it truly sounded magical except that you have to boat in potentially angry waters and swim in to shore, carrying anything precious above your head as you tread water.
We met another couple from Texas that had crossed the channel to Palmarola, determined to make the same Conde Nast article come to life, and confirmed the scariness factor. What awaits those bold adventurers on Palmarola is an island mostly uninhabited and away from other travelers, clear cerulean waters and a restaurant called O’Francese that serves up elegant, simple seafood dishes featuring fresh catches.
On the way back from your sea adventures, take the 10-minute walk from the port up to the hotel and post up at the pool to soak in the last few hours of sun. Freshen up before heading back out for sundown cocktails on the viewing deck. Keep dinner low key and split a margherita pie and bottle of vino tinto from La Pazzaria, which is a few minutes outside of town.
Day Three: Explore the isola di ponza
Brunch is included at the Hotel Chiaia di Luna so enjoy a king’s feast poolside at the hotel and take the morning to read some colorful anecdotes in Italian Days by Barbara Grizzuti Harrison as you sip on strong espresso. The day will be spent zipping around on motorized scooter to see the far reaches of the island and doing like the locals do at the beach clubs and watering holes.
Head to one of the kiosks near the port to negotiate your way to a Vespa-esque scooter. Beggars can’t be choosers so we hopped on our vintage lavender bike and we were off to the races. Via Guarini is the main (only) road across the island so you’ll be able to cruise without a map and just soak in the pastel storefronts and ancient coastal views whizzing by.
My recommendation is head all the way to the other end of the island for a pit stop at Forte Papa, an old fortress, for more incredible views of the jagged limestone cliffs and then stop off at the spots that stood out on the way back.
A highlight for us was Piscine Naturali, you’ll see the signs and need not look far to find the stairs down to the pool. Head right and you’ll see a beach club which was tres cool but expensive for a quick dip; head left for a watering hole filled with locals sunning and splashing in the cool water. Find a spot on the rocks around the pool, grab a Pellegrino from the cafe and settle in to the warm afternoon.
After returning the scooter and doing the 10-minute walk from the port up to the hotel, get some R&R and Spend your last night at Il Pescatore for more fresh frutti di mare and a spectacular sunset view of the island. You’ll need a taxi and a reservation here but it’s oh so worth it.
